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The HBC (Hallman Boost Controller) that you have just purchased is made of the highest quality Aluminum and Stainless Steel pieces to ensure long life. The HBC will provide reliable control of boost with race proven results.

Before you install your HBC you must already these components installed: a performance exhaust system, a low restriction air filter, and an after market boost gauge. An after market boost gauge is a must because most stock gauges will not read correctly at higher than stock boost levels. Raising your boost level will void your warranty and it can also destroy your engine if not done correctly.

To install the HBC on a single turbo application is simple and easy. It may be hard to install the lines on the controller. A tiny drop of motor oil on your finger and then applied to the fitting will allow for easier installation of the lines. The line opposite of the adjustment bolt is the line that needs to see the boost source; this line is the input to the controller. This line should be hooked up to the compressor housing barb directly. The other line is the line that you need to connect to the wastegate actuator. The lines can be cut to a convenient length. Most turbo systems will have a vacuum line that runs from a barb off of the compressor housing or off of the intercooler plumbing close to the compressor housing. If you first locate your turbo and then find the actuator for the wastegate; you can trace the line from the actuator back to wherever it goes. Most of the late model turbo cars have a boost control solenoid that the ECU can control to raise or lower boost depending on if it sees knock or not. If you encounter this, we would recommend removing the lines that go to and from the boost control solenoid. The ECU is also capable of retarding timing to reduce detonation. So removal of the boost control solenoid does not mean that you will blow up your motor, but it will ensure that you have rock steady boost with this particular controller. Any time you increase boost, we would recommend running the best octane grade of gas you can get in your area; this will also help avoid detonation.

After you have removed the old system lines and have installed the new lines from the HBC, be sure to secure all the connections with the supplied wire ties. If you tap into the blow off line for your boost source and you had a boost source off of the compressor housing, be sure to block this off with a vacuum cap and secure it with a wire tie.

Now you are ready to test the car. Make sure that there is about 3/4 of an inch of adjustment between the bottom of the adjustment screw and surface where the lock nut seats. Be sure to tighten the lock nut after adjustments are made. Drive the car and check boost level. By turning the adjustment screw in, it will increase boost. Be careful, by turning the screw by only a fraction of an inch, it will increase boost. With only an exhaust and an air filter, no more than a couple of pounds of boost past the stock level is recommended. If the car sputters, knocks or kicks under heavy acceleration, the boost is too high and needs to be turned down. This is called fuel cut and it is the computers way of protecting the engine. If you hit fuel cut you will need to disconnect the negative battery cable for about 30 seconds to reset the computer. Even if you turn down the boost and you do not reset the computer, you will hit fuel cut again. This is because the computer remembers fuel cut and why it happened. If your car pings, you will need to turn down the boost. Good Luck, have fun, and make adjustments slowly.